Feature photo, from left: Inga Sukhodolska, Oberig; Tetiana Kondratiuk, Oberig; Iryna Karpova, Organic Jewelry; Lubenchenko Alina, Oberig; Olga Oleksenko, Strong & Precious; Inesa Kovalova, Inesa Kovalova at Gem Genève, May 2024
Faced with the challenging development of conflict in her country, and her job of 12 plus years as director of Van Cleef & Arpels in Kyiv and later brand ambassador suddenly gone, Olga Oleksenko made it her mission to showcase the talent, beauty and culture of her people to the rest of the world through her Strong & Precious Art Foundation. “I wanted to use my expertise in service to my country,” says Oleksenko, who started the foundation in April 2022. “I decided that I would showcase the heritage and craft of jewelry made in Ukraine.”
The First Exhibition
Fortuitously, there was an edition of Gem Genève on the horizon at the time, a venue that Oleksenko thought would be a good place to show Ukrainian made jewelry. She wrote a note to Thomas Faerber, who co-founded the show with Ronny Totah, asking for space for Ukrainian designers. “He called me right away and gave me the booth,” recalls Oleksenko. “Ronny Totah came up with the name Strong & Precious.” The group has exhibited at Gem Genève five times and has also exhibited at New York City Jewelry Week, Jewels Basel and Sotheby’s.
Jewelry is an important part of the culture of any country, but with the attack on Ukraine, it took on a new meaning. “Ukrainian jewelry represents our history, heritage and national identity” explains Oleksenko, who is now based in Boca Raton, Florida. “The invasion tried to erase Ukrainian culture, so it is a must for all Ukrainians to show the authenticity of our culture and craftsmanship. Jewelry shows the diversity and creativity of our people.”
Ukrainian Jewelry Making Expertise
Areas of jewelry making that Ukrainian jewelers are particularly known for are chain weaving and traditional stone setting all done by hand. There is also a rich tradition of enamel work. Oleksenko notes that Ukrainian jewelry is filled with symbolism. “Our country was at one time pagan, so some of the symbols preserve the pagan traditions. There are mystical animals, tree of life and lunar motifs, each element means something. All Ukrainian made jewelry tells about the intellect of the person wearing it and sends a message to others.”
The conflict has, of course, changed the jewelry industry in Ukraine. First, the jewelry market shrank, all the big international brands closed their stores and consumers were not buying. “People in cities far from the conflict zone are buying jewelry again, but now the jewelry is coming from Ukrainian designers to show nationalism and to support the designers in the country,” comments Oleksenko, who notes that blackouts have slowed down production and It’s hard to get materials to produce jewelry so designers are using more silver, bronze or brass.
Moving Ahead
What is the future for the Strong & Precious Art Foundation? “I’d like to see exhibitions of Ukrainian jewelry presented at the highest art institutions, museums,” concludes Oleksenko. “I’d like to see educational programs for jewelers so that they can maintain a high skill level and I’d like to see the jewelry in stores and galleries around the world with our designers achieving commercial success.”
By Amber Michelle
